The modern necktie remains a remarkably honest object. It does not flatter carelessness, it does not forgive excess, and it has a particular way of exposing men who believe effort and sophistication are the same thing. Among contemporary options, grenadine and knit ties, Italian slim construction, and simpler knots consistently outperform heavier, more elaborate alternatives — both aesthetically and functionally.
The Golden Globes and the Grammys, those reliable leading indicators, suggested not a full reversion to classic men's dress but a fork in the road: the former increasingly a space where refined, recognisably formal menswear is rewarded; the latter continuing to champion innovation even when anchored in tailoring. What unites both, according to fashion writers, is that craftsmanship and fit matter again. Men's fashion is circling back to structure and intention rather than irony or deliberate dishevelment.
The Case for Grenadine
Start with grenadine. Woven in Como, Italy on looms that look like they belong in a museum, grenadine silk was originally developed to provide visual interest without ostentation. Grenadines come in two main forms: fina (lighter, tighter) and grossa (more open and textured). Unlike glossy printed silks, the weaves create a subtle visual depth which absorbs light rather than reflecting it. This is why grenadines pair so well with modern tailoring — they knot softly, collapse just enough, and sit in quiet harmony across a wide range of outfits without appearing either severe or casual. They do what a tie is supposed to do: complete an outfit without becoming the subject of it.
The Knit Tie
The knit tie violates several conventions at once: square ends, open weave, minimal structure. It works precisely because it relaxes tailoring without undermining it. The rule here is not "knit ties are casual," but that informality should be intentional. They sit flat against the shirt, travel well, resist creasing, and naturally form smaller knots. A knit tie with a flannel suit or hopsack jacket looks effortless; a heavy printed silk in the same context looks like you've dressed in the dark using someone else's wardrobe.
Construction and the Italian Advantage
Italian ties, particularly from Naples and Milan, tend to be slimmer, lighter, and more pliable than their English or French counterparts. They use thinner interlinings and fewer folds, allowing the use of thicker cloths such as Shantung silk — ties which drape rather than assert. Traditional English and French 7-fold or 5-fold ties are undeniable feats of craftsmanship that increasingly struggle to justify themselves in daily wear. Excess bulk creates knots that feel architectural rather than elegant. Craftsmanship, admirable though it is, is not an end in itself — a lesson from which certain selvedge denim enthusiasts and mechanical watch collectors might also benefit.
On the Windsor Knot
The Windsor was a solution to a very specific mid-century problem: how to fill a spread collar using thin ties and rigid shirt fronts. That problem no longer exists. Persisting with a Windsor today results in a knot that is top-heavy, disrupts vertical line, and draws attention to itself with all the subtlety of a man explaining his Rolex collection at a dinner party. Most well-constructed ties simply do not need it, and the ones that do probably shouldn't exist.
The best ties share one quality: they do not announce themselves. They support the whole, then step back. Grenadine, knit, lightly constructed silks and restrained knots result in ties that are more adaptable, more flattering, and more in harmony with modern tailoring.
And as with most things in menswear, when something feels absolutely necessary, it usually isn't.